Where is Ischia? And other questions answered. . .A Trip Report

When we told people we were visiting Ischia on our trip, we got two sets of responses.  Italians and other Europeans would applaud our choice and tell us how much we would enjoy it.  Most Americans, however, would give us a blank look and ask “Where is Ischia?”

Ischia is the largest island in the Gulf of Naples.  It’s an hour’s ferry ride from Naples, Capri or Sorrento.  Humans have inhabited the island for at least 3,000 years, mostly as a base to fish the fertile waters of the Tyrrhenian Sea.  Like most of Italy, it’s been controlled by several foreign powers, dating all the way back to the Greeks and Etruscans.  The French claimed Ischia during parts of the 18^th and 19^th centuries, and their influence can still be seen today.  The duchy of Naples ruled Ischia, more often than not, for most of the last thousand years, and it was part of the unified country of Italy from its inception in 1861.

We did not travel to Ischia to conquer; we were more interested in sampling its fresh and delicious seafood, sipping its native wines, browsing in its plentiful shops, and basking in its Mediterranean sunshine.  We declared victory in all of our objectives!

Ristorante Lido Azzurro, Amalfi, Italy.

We bade goodbye to Positano on a Thursday, piling back into Antonio’s well-appointed Mercedes for a tour of the Amalfi coast.  We stopped at Ceramiche Casola, just outside the town of Amalfi, to see how the beautiful ceramic dishes, signs, tables and more are made.  It’s all done by hand and the pieces are fired individually in kilns.  We ordered a nice Casa Ridolfi sign, custom made to our specifications, that should arrive by Christmas.  Then, Antonio took us to the beautiful seaside town of Amalfi, a close rival to Positano for most beautiful town on the coast, for a wonderful lunch right on the water at Ristorante Lido Azzurro.  The fish we ate there had literally been caught that morning, and it was sensational.

Villa Rufolo, Ravello, Italy.

Then, Antonio drove us up the mountain to Ravello, another magical place that seems to float above the gulf.  We toured the lovely Villa Rufolo and its beautiful gardens, all while enjoying the relative quiet and cool of our higher perch.  As we left Ravello, our route was closed for construction, so we drove the length of the Amalfi coast drive, all the way down to Salerno, experiencing all of its hair-raising twists and turns and breathtaking vistas.

We arrived in Naples with just minutes to spare to catch our ferry to Ischia.  This is where Antonio was once again a huge help.  He drove us straight to the correct ticket office (that can be confusing), helped us get our ferry tickets, and walked us over to the correct ferry.  He was the difference between making it onto that ferry and waiting another hour or more for the next one.  Grazie, Antonio!

Grand Hotel & Spa Il Moresco, Ischia, Italy.

After a beautiful ferry ride, we arrived in Ischia early in the evening.  We checked into our hotel, the Grand Hotel Il Moresco, and were greeted warmly by its professional staff and Old World ambiance.  It’s a bit of a throwback. . .no key cards, a real big, heavy key. . .the kind you turn into the desk when leaving the hotel.  There’s a beautiful but more formal dining room (indoor and outdoor), for which you had to have a reservation.  I had to wear pants to dinner. . .”pantaloni, signore, per favore.”  Best of all, a talented singer played the baby grand piano every night, just off the lobby bar.

Junior suite, Hotel Il Moresco.

We were given a beautiful suite, right next to where Matt Damon stayed while filming “The Talented Mr. Ripley” in 1998.  (He was very nice, we were told.)   The suite was spacious and included both a living room and a separate large, covered patio with a view of the town’s skyline and the hotel pool.  Throughout the hotel, the floors were covered in beautiful polished, colorful tile similar to the floor of our room, pictured above.

We Americans seemed to be a bit of a novelty. . .for the first couple of days, we may have been the only Yankees staying at the hotel.  The rest of the guests seemed to be a happy, relaxed mix of Italians, along with a few other Europeans and Brits on holiday.  Most of them were returning for the sixth, twelfth or more time, and they loved the hotel and the island.  They cautioned us not to tell too many people how beautiful it was, but you can keep a secret, can’t you?

Grand Hotel Il Moresco pool.

The pool area is gorgeous, featuring a large pool and a smaller, grotto style pool fed by one of Ischia’s many hot springs.  It’s nicely arranged with groupings of private chaise lounge chairs areas scattered amid the gorgeous tropical garden-like plantings, as well as a little café serving drinks and food.  The hotel also has its own private beach, featuring dozens of chaise lounges on various decks backed by another bar/café. Noteworthy: the little beach area had volcanic sand, not the pebbles/rocks to be found on Capri or the Amalfi coast.  Both the pool and beach were great places to relax while listening to the water lapping away nearby.  Mrs. E visited the spa one afternoon and had a nice facial (reservations required).  Il Moresco’s spa is known for its excellent treatments.

Castello Aragonese, Ischia, Italy.

So what is there to do while in Ischia?  The big attraction is the Castello Aragonese, built by the Greek colony in Siracusa in Sicily in 474 B.C. on a rock that looks like a miniature Gibraltar.  It’s just off the coast, connected by a causeway about a half mile long.  By 1700, about 5,000 people lived in the castle, which boasted numerous homes, shops, workshops, and churches, some of which have survived and can be seen today.  The whole structure is connected by a series of tunnels and outdoor paths, and it’s worth a couple hours’ visit.  We were told there was an elevator to take you up and down it’s 350 foot height, but we never found it.  We did a lot of walking and climbing!

There are little towns like Forio scattered around the island that feature beaches and seaside restaurants.  Several hot volcanic spring spas lay claim to the recuperative powers of their mineral rich waters, each an easy taxi ride from Ischia town.  There’s a lot of shopping, but none of the big designer names you’ll find in Capri or Positano.  Still, there are bargains to be had in clothing and especially linens.

Ischia is also a great base for exploring more of the Amalfi coast and the other islands in the Bay of Naples, most notably Capri, about an hour away by ferry, which is the easiest and most economical way to get around the Bay.  We’ll write more about those islands in another post.

Ristorante Alberto, Ischia, Italy.

The restaurants on the island are very reasonably priced, featuring the freshest seafood (frutti di mare) and vegetables (contorni), usually accompanied by pork and/or beef dishes, and always accompanied by some great local wines.  We enjoyed the beautiful La Pergola restaurant at our hotel as well as nearby Ristorante Alberto and  O’Solito Posto (@osolitoposto on Facebook).  Travel tip:  When you’re eating at a local restaurant, always ask what the specials are.  These are usually the freshest and the very proud chef puts his best effort into making them truly special.  Unless you just don’t like a particular dish, get it.  You’ll be getting the best they have to offer.

Five nights in Ischia was just right, and we loved the laid-back atmosphere.  Rested and relaxed, we were ready to head to Rome, the subject of our next post.  For now, arrivederci to Ischia. . .we’ll be back!

Sunset from Ristorante Alberto, Ischia, Italy.

If you’d like to see more pictures from our trip to Bell’ Italia, go to our Instagram or Facebook pages @theexceptionaltraveler.