We’re turning over the reins today to Exceptional Traveler Karen. She and her husband Ken just returned from a week in Mexico where they attended a wedding and stayed for a few extra days. Here’s her report:
Todos Santos in Mexico’s Baja California Sur is emerging as a destination of its own, rather than a day trip from Cabo San Lucas. The village is about an hour’s drive north on a real highway. (Enjoy it while it lasts. The roads are “rustic” once you get off Highway 19.)
So, as the New York Times and Vogue Magazine asked in pre-pandemic travel pieces: “Why Is Everyone You Know Suddenly Going to Todos Santos?” Answer: It’s less expensive, relatively safe and more authentic.
Todos Santos first grew from a sleepy village because the spectacular waves nearby attracted U.S. surfers. It now has a good number of expats of both the surfer and artist varieties. The town survived the pandemic lockdown without losing too many restaurants, hotels and businesses.
Downtown area of Todos Santos, Mexico.
It is much less expensive than Los Cabos. The fanciest hotel in town, Guaycura Boutique Hotel Beach Club and Spa, was about $1,300 US for five nights. The food is incredibly good and roughly $50ish for two for dinner without drinks.
But Todos Santos will never grow into Los Cabos Jr. because the Mexican government declared it a “Pueblo Magico” or heritage area, one of 120 towns in Mexico with restrictions on development to retain their authentic nature.
We were in town for a wedding. The trip on Southwest to Aeropuerto Internacional de San Jose del Cabo (SJD) went smoothly, although many others in the party struggled with cancellations and delays, thanks to the continued disruptions caused by the pandemic.
We took private transportation to Todos Santos. Several in our party rented cars, which added an additional two-hour delay at the airport. If you want your own car, get a four-wheel drive sport utility car to navigate the unpaved roads. You can walk in “downtown” Todos Santos, but you have to take a taxi to the beach club, the best restaurant (El Mirador Oceanview Restaurant) and other locations.
When we arrived, we discovered that our beginning Spanish was not good enough to deal with a serious issue. The hotel had not fully charged our credit card in a mix-up so they had rebooked our room to someone else for our five-day stay. Dios mio!
After about 30 minutes, a manager who spoke fluent English arrived. She promised she would get us a room, even if we had to stay at her own house. Fortunately, just the right kind of cancellation rolled in, and we got our room back.
If we hadn’t, we could have stayed in a number of boutique hotels, often in restored 19th century buildings made of brick and adobe. Just across the street from our hotel was The Todos Santos Inn, which has retained its authentic charm inside and out. Hotel California is also widely known, although The Eagles have stopped its owners from claiming that it is THAT Hotel California. Had we stayed there, we may have never been allowed to leave. . .
Anyway, walking around Todos Santos revealed a good array of restaurants and challenging sidewalks, which included intermittent stairs, broken places and dog poop.
Fodor’s said we should go to Todos Santos to shop. That’s actually a mixed experience. Some artisans are in the town, selling art, jewelry and leather bags in their shops and galleries. So are the people selling your basic tourist stuff. The main street looks like a dusty version of Duvall Street in Key West.
We ate at La Morena the first night. The food was great, including vegetarian options. The setting was rustic, and the staff spoke English.
Sunset over the Pacific, Todos Santos, Mexico.
Our best meals were at the rooftop restaurant of the Guaycara Hotel, featuring high-end food at reasonable prices from breakfast to dinner. Our breakfasts including gorgeous fruit platters, delicious French toast and a fried cheese dish with Sienna-style sauce that was incredible. If you go to dinner, stay to watch a beautiful sunset over the visible ocean.
El Faro Beach Club.
We spent one relaxing day at El Faro Beach Club and Spa, with its lovely infinity pool, full service, bar, spa, beach beds and restaurant. The service was excellent. Going to the beach club was free to those staying at Guaycara. Others need to pay and reserve in advance.
My husband and friends also had a fun fishing adventure with a private boat charter. They caught Mahi-Mahi until the bait ran out. Other hearty souls hiked in the mountains or took surfing lessons.
We also had a local man offer us a private historical tour on foot. He took us to meet some local artisans. We got insight into the story of the Nuestra Senora del Pilar, which is half historical mission and half modern parish church, as well as a beautiful 1944 movie theatre that’s rarely used today.
Since Todos Santos means All Saints, it also has a lively multi-day Dia de los Muertos (Day of the Dead) celebration focused around Halloween, All Saints Day and All Souls Day (October 31, November 1 and 2).
A Catrina celebrating Dia de los Muertes in Todos Santos, Mexico.
In the square, locals build altars bearing photos of their loved ones and late pets. They fill the altars with food and marigolds to encourage the dearly departed to visit. Women and girls dress as Catrinas, elegant women with skeleton faces. The church held Mass outside nearby.
Getting back to the airport also required private transportation. We had tickets to the Ecobaja Tours bus to the airport, but discovered it was picking us (and our luggage) up a fair distance on broken sidewalks from the hotel.
Todos Santos is certainly a different experience from the glitz of Los Cabos, but it’s much more authentic, interesting and relaxing.
Great content! Keep up the good work!